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Jim Ratz, NOLS Director, AMGA Director and Environmental Leader dies in climbing accident

 

Jim Ratz 1953-2005
Environmental advocate and climber Jim Ratz died in a climbing accident in Sinks Canyon, Wyoming, on May 4. 2005. He was 52.

I first came to know Jim during his years with the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), 1973 to1995, which culminated with 11 years as executive director. Under Jim's leadership, NOLS grew in both size and scope; he opened the Patagonia, Southwest, and Canada programs. He published Soft Paths, the authoritative book on minimum-impact backcountry travel. Jim was also instrumental in starting NOLS's Leave No Trace research and public-policy programs.

In 1999, Jim and I joined Rob and Kathryn Hess in purchasing Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. With Jim as president and guide, we grew substantially. Guides and clients were extremely fond of Jim as an employer, mountain guide, and friend.

Frequently, Jim's work and love for the mountains took him into the Tetons and Wind Rivers, and occasionally to more distant peaks including Denali, Aconcagua, and Kilimanjaro. While he was passionate about preserving time with his family, Jim loved sunny afternoons climbing with his friends in Sinks Canyon, where he made numerous first ascents.

At times, Jim came off as quiet and sometimes even shy, but he held strong opinions and had a truly rowdy side. He was the first to say yes when the guides suggested we drill a hole through a refrigerator door and devote the entire thing to cooling and tapping a keg. At a party, he was the one ready to dance, asking for the music to be turned up. And if that party was outside, we always knew who was behind those mysterious fireworks.

Jim was a leader, and involved in many organizations that ranged from serving as Director of the American Mountain Guides Association, and later as the board's vice president, to chairman of Leave No Trace, Inc. He was on the advisory board of the World Wildlife Congress and he even took time to be the Director of the Lander Valley High School Swim Club Board.
--Phil Powers, September 2005

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The Three Sisters and Broken Top
South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister (the sinister sister) and Broken Top in the Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon USA
Photo Copyright© 2005 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.